Somewhere in my destiny, it has been written that I can only visit South Asia every 10 years. It has been much like reading your favorite book every 10 years. The things you notice are different because, of course, you are different.
For all the times we have visited Karachi, it has always been such an insular visit. Most of the time, we have gone for family weddings and the entire trip centers around that. But this time, we were able to experience Pakistan like never before. I owe this to my sister, who is a builder of itineraries, travel plans and knows that there is something mind-blowing waiting to be seen, if you are willing to find it.
This is a black and white photo series I call “Pakistan: the land where darkness plays with light.” On this trip, we got to see more of the province of Sindh than most people see in their whole life because they are city dwellers and stick to Karachi. There is history in the city of Karachi, but so much more hidden a short distance away. Let me take you on a tour of the sites in Sindh.
000 A truck full of day laborers passes us in the city on their way to work on what will likely be a construction site. They flash us a smile as they pass. (Karachi, Sindh)
001 An elderly man seated at the entrance of the Jamia Mosque, also called the Shah Jahan Mosque, holds his cane while reciting prayers under his breath. This mosque was a gift to the people of Sindh for their hospitality from the Mughal Emperor, Shah Jahan, built in in 1647. (Thatta, Sindh)
002 Inside the Shah Jahan Mosque, a young girl is seen sweeping the floors. This mosque has no minarets but a total of 93 domes, the most of any structure in Pakistan. It also has a large number of archways, as pictured here. (Thatta, Sindh)
003 One of the larger domes of the Shah Jahan Mosque. This mosque, like many others, is also known for its tile work. (Thatta, Sindh)
004 My sister examines the ruins of the tombs at Makli. Makli is one of the largest necropolises in the world. Some of the last ruling sultans or nawabs of Sindh are buried here. (Makli, Sindh)
005 Tombstones. Makli is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. There is no government-organized or regulated upkeep for this site, like the others. (Makli, Sindh)
006 A shopkeeper getting the attention of worshipers who are visiting the mausoleum of a Sufi scholar. Pilgrims normally decorate the tomb with flowers or with a cloth bearing religious scripture before they sit down to say a prayer. (Makli, Sindh)
007 A snake charmer sits outside the tomb of Mirza Isa Khan Tarkhan. The Tarkhan dynasty was followed by the Mughal Empire. (Makli, Sindh)
008 A photo of Mirza Isa Khan Tarkhan’s 16th century tomb from the bars of the gate. This is as far as tourists and locals are allowed to go. (Makli, Sindh)
009 This is the excavated ancient city of Bhanbore. Behind the youngsters is the reconstruction of the fort wall. The paths outlined by rocks are the roadways the dwellers used to use. A mosque from the 8th century, one of the oldest of South Asia, was discovered here. (Bhanbore, Sindh)
010 Chaukhandi Tombs are generally attributed to the Jokhio and Baloch tribe and were built between the 15th to 18th centuries. (Sindh, Pakistan)
011 The volunteer tour guide pictured here has spent much of his life cleaning, preserving and protecting this UNESCO World Heritage site. “These tombs have taught me many things the living couldn’t,” he said.
There are identifying features on these sandstone-sculpted tombs. You can see this tomb belonged to a royal woman, as it has pretty high pyramidal structure and there are bangles and a jeweled necklace carved in to the stone. (Sindh, Pakistan)
012 There were no cameras allowed inside the mausoleum of Pakistan’s founder, Muhammad Ali Jinnah. But there were some very nice officers outside, protecting it.
Everywhere in Karachi, there are guards with guns outside businesses or other establishments. We learned that much of the time, the guns are empty — they are there for a show of muscle and security. (Karachi, Pakistan)
013 Karachi is a port city, hugging the Persian Gulf and the Arabian Sea. All coastal cities have a common feature: their seaside, soothing winds. This picture was taken at my aunt’s wall of windows. (Karachi, Pakistan)
014 This monument is centrally located in the city and is called “Do Talwar,” meaning “Two Swords.” This is a variant of the famous landmark “Teen Talwar” meaning “Three Swords,” which has the creed of the founder inscribed on them: unity, faith and discipline. (Karachi, Pakistan)
Zarmeena is a graduate from Virginia Commonwealth University. She studied Broadcast Journalism and Spanish. In her own words, there is nothing more fulfilling than creating compelling and aesthetic content. She enjoys photography, dance, writing, and considers herself an aspiring superhero.