Hijab is worn with different meanings all over the world. In Saudi Arabia, it’s considered a law. In Malaysia, the hijab can have political implications, depending on the chosen colors. In Dubai, the socio-economic levels are recognized through a hijab’s brand and material. And in the United States, the fashion ideology is paving the way for a new growth of hijabis. During the time of our mothers and grandmothers, hijabs in the U.S. were worn with simple colors and styles without much variety or cost to them. As the years wore on, the typical Muslim woman began to own not just five or so hijabs, but dozens and sometimes even hundreds, with a much more inflated price tag. Whether it is seen as a crown of modesty or a symbol of oppression, it can’t be denied that “fashion statement” has now been added to that list.
The headscarf some Muslim women choose to wear over their heads has received international press for the past few years, good and bad. The modest burkini was prohibited as beach-wear in Cannes, France, although the ban was later overturned. High-end fashion industries tapped this large clothing consumer market and started “modest-wear” designer brands. Those who joined these ranks include names such as Dolce and Gabbana, Tommy Hilfiger and DKNY. New York Fashion Week also made history when the Muslim designer Anniesa Hasibuan showcased the first ever collection that featured hijabis in every stunning outfit, proving you can dress conservatively and still flaunt it on the runway. H&M released an advert last year that included a beautiful array of characters — one being a hijabi Muslim model decked out in a modest outfit from their line.
It’s clear that Muslim fashion became mainstream, and fast. Today’s fashion industry has become all about consumerism and objectification, buying and judging what each person wears. Although it asserts a Muslim woman’s right to be and feel beautiful, buying more than you need and judging clothes is what some would say is the opposite of Islamic values. According to the State of Global Islamic Economy Report, this newly tapped market is estimated to be worth over $350 billion in the next four years alone. Some Muslims argue this new endeavor of modest fashionistas is only good to a point. They think it’s endangering the respect and idea that the hijab is first worn in, stressing that hijabs are originally worn for religious reasons and these reasons should not be forgotten. These same people also feel offended by those large designer brands that are only in it for the big bucks without fully understanding the value, nature and true implications of a hijab as they create new styles. It’s a juggling act trying to observe the religious doctrine as well as embellish the spirit of modest wear while being happy with how you look and who you are by the end of the day.
Yet others hear the news of this flourishing fashion industry and jump for joy, believing it to be a smart move for fashion businesses. These are the same people who find it a struggle being Muslim in the U.S. and trying to dress conservatively, but also adoring the fashion trends that hit their area. A common ground issue found on both sides is the hefty price tag in modest wear companies such as Haute Hijab, Annah Hariri and Divinity Collection, just to name a few. Many shops like these have similar origin stories — they started their brand because it was difficult for them to find modest fashion to begin with. It’s great that they began these businesses for their fellow Muslim girls out there, but the overpriced inventory seems to defeat the purpose of making the styles readily and easily available. Some would go as far as to say hijab as a fashion statement divides Muslims instead of bringing them together with the backlash it incites from those in the Muslim community who criticize it as “immodest,” agreeing that spending hundreds of dollars on religious headwear isn’t something plausible.
We must grow together in this booming industry and use the platform to help Muslim women be comfortable, modest and stylish. Modest fashion can be utilized to the advantage of women who feel sexualized by society. It’s a stage to show those who face Islamophobia that we are no different than the next human being, that Muslim women have just as much passion, creativity and ambition as those around them, as was proven by Muslim Muay Thai fighter Ruqsana Begum. She launched her brand of sports hijabs, which have gained a large following from Muslim women who wanted to continue to stay modest while exercising or swimming. Fencer Ibtihaj Muhammad became the first Team USA athlete to compete in a hijab when she donned one at the Rio 2016 Olympics, helping to shed light on this next big market. And 14-year-old Stephanie Kurlow, an Australian school girl, became the first professional hijabi ballerina in the world. These women helped solidify the foundation of the modest fashion industry — the idea that a girl can keep her identity and beliefs and still follow her dreams and have success. Their actions changed the apprehension society had of Muslim women. They brought awareness to facilities and services focused on Muslim girls, and showed how it’s very possible to perform and create without sacrificing values.
The hijab fashion industry has helped increase the acceptance of the hijab worldwide, showing it in a much more positive light rather than a negative one. It’s a beautiful thing to witness anyone embrace an aspect of Islam without the violent and oppressive connotations it’s sometimes associated with. The hatred for Muslims has skyrocketed in recent years. According to Pew Research, the FBI reported 257 incidents of anti-Muslim hate crimes in 2015. That’s an increase of 67 percent from the previous year. The rise of the modest fashion industry offers a podium to aid in stamping out the negative ideas linked with Muslims, as well as increase acceptance for Muslim hijabi women in particular. What we perceive in the media can be biased or not always as accurate as we would hope for it to be. The media fundamentally shapes the way that we perceive the world. This welcome into the fashion world can lead to an overall greater acceptance of Muslims in a society where skewed perceptions are at their highest and tolerance at its lowest.
Threa is an MFA candidate at North Carolina State University. She has poetry and short stories published in Oakland Arts Review, Atlantis Magazine, Day One Journal and elsewhere. She spends her free time traveling to places not easily found on a map. You can follow her @breezythreezy on Twitter for more.